Enter through Bab Touma and follow the Street Called Straight (Via Recta) past Roman columns and Umayyad-era courtyard houses. Note how the souqs branch off toward the Citadel in the northwest corner, and look for the remaining gates in the 700-year-old walls. This is still a working residential district, so stay aware of small alleys and shopfronts.

Dress modestly and remove shoes before entering; women may be offered an abaya at the gate. Look for the Byzantine-era gold mosaics, the shrine of John the Baptist, and the Dome of the Treasury in the vast courtyard. Non-Muslims can visit, but avoid the main prayer hall during prayer times.

This long arched market runs from the Citadel straight to the Umayyad Mosque. Browse woven damask textiles, olive oil soap, and spices, then step into side lanes such as Souq al-Buzuriyah for herbs and dried goods. Bargaining is expected, and small purchases of soap or sweets pack easily.

This 18th century Ottoman palace sits just south of the mosque near Souq al-Buzuriyah. Check the iwan reception hall, the fountain courtyard, and the restored rooms that show inlaid marble and carved woodwork. Allow time to sit in the garden before the evening crowd gathers.

Start at the marble-fronted museum on Shukri al-Quwatli Street, across from the Tekkiye Mosque. The highlights are the reconstructed Dura-Europos synagogue with its vivid 3rd-century wall paintings and the Palmyra and Ugarit galleries, so budget about two and a half hours.

A restored 19th-century merchant mansion tucked near the end of the covered Souq al-Hamidiyyeh. Walk the shaded courtyards and look for inlaid mother-of-pearl woodwork and painted ceilings on the upper floor, then browse the small crafts and heritage display.

A restored Ayyubid-era fortress in the northwest corner of the Old City, just off the end of Souq al-Hamidiyyeh. Climb the ramparts and towers for wide views over the city and check the carved entrance portal and inner halls. Two hours covers the whole circuit.

Enter the old city through the northeastern Saint Thomas Gate into the Christian Quarter, where narrow alleys open onto several old churches. Walk along Qassaa Street, the main pedestrian lane, and look for shops selling olive oil soap and hand-carved icons. Ask a local to point out the Tawriyat Bazaar entrance if you want to walk from here toward Straight Street.

Walk the full length of Straight Street, the ancient east-west Roman road that still cuts through the old city. Near the western end, descend the steps to the underground Chapel of Saint Ananias where Paul is said to have been healed. Stop in the textile and handicraft shops along the way and look for surviving Roman arch fragments built into the facades.

Take a shared taxi or minibus from the old city to the Sayyidah Zainab district, about 10 km south. The mosque's huge golden dome and dazzling Persian-style mirrored interior are the main draw, and the surrounding lanes sell religious souvenirs and street snacks. Dress conservatively, cover your head if you are a woman, and leave shoes at the entrance.

This spice and dried-fruit market sits beside the Umayyad Mosque, across from the entrance to the Souq al-Hamidiyah. Stock up on saffron, sumac, and dried zaatar, and step into the 16th century Khan As'ad Pasha caravanserai to see its octagonal courtyard. Finish with the famed molten pistachio ice cream pounded with a mallet at the old parlor on the market's edge.

Take a taxi or shared minibus up the hairpin road to the Mount Qasioun overlook and time your arrival for late afternoon so the Old City, Umayyad Mosque and rooftops light up at dusk. Bring a jacket, since the summit is noticeably cooler than downtown in autumn, and ask the driver to wait or arrange a pick-up time as taxis are scarce up top.