Start on ul. Koscieliska and walk the side streets to see carved wooden villas with steep roofs and sun motifs on the gables. Koliba villa, the first Zakopane style building, sits at the top of the lane and is worth stopping at, then continue to ul. Zamoyskiego for the most intact examples.
Enter from ul. Koscieliska behind the old wooden church and climb the small hill with the historic iron crosses. Look for the grave of writer Kornel Makuszyński and the stone monument to Sabała, the famous highland musician, and keep the visit quiet as it is still an active parish cemetery.
Browse the stalls along the top of ul. Krupówki for oscypek, sheepskin slippers, and carved walking sticks, but haggle gently. Follow the side lanes off the promenade where vendors sell similar goods for less, and buy the smoked cheese straight from the grill.
Find the trailhead at the end of Droga na Sarnią Skałę, just behind the funicular station, and climb the forest path for about 40 minutes. The rocky outcrop opens to a wide view over Zakopane and Giewont, and it stays quiet because most visitors ride the funicular instead.
The main branch on ul. Krupówki 10 holds the ethnographic collection of highland dress, shepherding tools, and Tatra paintings. Ask for the combined ticket that also covers the Atma villa on ul. Kasprusie, where composer Karol Szymanowski lived, a short walk away.
Walk up the access road from ul. Piłsudskiego to the base of the great ski jump and take the stairs to the platform beside the takeoff. At night the jump is floodlit and the town lights below give a clear sense of its scale, with no crowds on the platform.
Where to stay tonight
Bed & Breakfast in Koscieliska (old wooden-lane district one block off the main promenade) $35-55/night
You sleep among the carved wooden villas this day is about, and the lane sits a short walk from the cemetery, museum, and market.
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