Enter from the Shinjuku Gate (near JR Shinjuku station's New South Exit). Walk straight past the greenhouse to the quiet Japanese garden area near the Taiwan Pavilion, which most tourists skip. Bring a ¥500 garden map if you want to locate the hidden teahouse.
Find the narrow north-south lane just west of JR Shinjuku station's West Exit, between the tracks and the Yodobashi Camera building. Look for the tiny yakitori and oden stalls packed into a smoky, lantern-lit passage. Go before 7pm to get a seat.
Head to the maze of six narrow alleys east of Kabukicho, near Hanazono Shrine. Skip the bars with English menus and bouncers; instead walk to the quieter second-floor spots on the eastern edge of the district where locals drink shochu and order negima yakitori (chicken and leek skewers).
Where to stay tonight
Hostel in Shinjuku (major transport hub west of Tokyo's center with endless food and nightlife) $20-35/night
Keeps you steps away from tonight's destinations in Shinjuku Gyoen, Omoide Yokocho, and Golden Gai, plus direct train access for the rest of your trip.
Search hotels in this area









