Start at the central square near the Church of Panagia ton Xenon, then wander the pedestrian streets lined with old wood-carved houses and jewelry and souvenir shops. If you are there early, look for the small morning produce stalls on the main shopping street.
Pick a table on the seafront road facing the Ionian, along the promenade between the yacht marina and the ferry dock. Order a Greek coffee or freddo cappuccino for about $3, and the cafenion will often bring a small glass of water and a sweet on the side.
Pick a taverna on the old town pedestrian lanes where locals are eating and a grill is visible from the street. Order the sofigado (rabbit stew in tomato) or whatever is cooking fresh that day, with Greek salad and a carafe of house wine.
The castle sits at the island end of the causeway bridge, about 3 km north of town, so take a taxi ($3-4) or KTEL bus if you do not want to walk the flat road. Climb the stone battlements for wide views over the lagoon and the sea, and check the drawbridge and moat before you leave.
Walk from the fishing harbor by the ferry dock up along the yacht marina as boats return at dusk, with the sun dropping over the Ionian. Save a spot on a marina-side bench for the best light, then decide which seafront restaurant to settle into for dinner.
Where to stay tonight
Hotel in Lefkada Town center (the old town promenade near the marina) $40-60/night
Every Day 1 highlight, including the old town, castle approach, and marina sunset, is within a short walk of the waterfront, and buses to the island's beaches also depart from town.
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