From the airport, take the ARST bus line 7302 or 7310 to Palau (about 50 minutes, ~4 EUR). The bus drops you at Palau Piazza Crispi, from where the ferry terminal is a 5-minute walk.
A short walk uphill from Palau center, this 19th-century fortress has free entry and gives sweeping views of the Maddalena archipelago. Look for the stone spiral staircase inside the main tower.
Take the Delcomar ferry from Palau to La Maddalena (15 min, ~5 EUR round trip). From the ferry dock, walk 20 minutes east to Cala Gavetta or take local bus to Spiaggia di Bassa Trinità for quieter coves.
Walk along Via del Mare near the port and look for small takeaway windows selling frittura mista (mixed fried seafood) for around 6-8 EUR. Skip the sit-down restaurants with English menus and follow where locals queue.
Where to stay tonight
Hostel in Palau (port town just minutes from ferry to La Maddalena) $40-60/night
Palau has the cheapest beds in the area and puts you walking distance from the fortress, ferries, and evening seafood spots.
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