From Narita, take the Narita Express (N'EX) to Shinjuku Station in about 80 minutes. From Haneda, take the Limousine Bus or Keikyu Line to Shinjuku in about 45 minutes. Pick up a Suica or Pasmo card at the airport for convenience on all trains and buses. Travel light through the station maze.
Exit Shinjuku Station's south exit and walk 10 minutes to the garden. Enter through the Okido gate and head straight to the Japanese landscape garden section with its teahouse and pond. The large lawn areas give kids space to run. Autumn colors peak in late November around the maple trees near the Taiwanese Pavilion.
From the garden, walk 15 minutes northwest to Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane), the narrow alley of tiny grill shops under the train tracks near Shinjuku Station's west exit. Look for an izakaya with seating at counter or lower tables where kids are welcome. Order yakitori skewers, edamame, and rice balls. Cash only at most stalls.
Where to stay tonight
Airbnb in Shinjuku (west side near the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, quieter than the east side and closer to the garden) $70-90/night
Keeps you near Shinjuku Gyoen and Omoide Yokocho while being a bit quieter for family sleep time.
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