Wander the narrow medieval lanes off the main tourist drag, especially Carrer de Sant Sever and Carrer dels Grecs. Look for the hidden Roman temple columns inside the Carrer del Paradís and the tiny Plaça de Sant Felip Neri with its bomb-scarred church walls.
Enter through the side door off Plaça de la Seu and head straight for the cloister where 13 white geese live. Search for the carved gargoyles near the fountain, and visit the small chapel of Santa Llúcia on the corner.
Skip the Ramblas and head to Carrer de l'Hospital and Carrer de la Riera Baixa. Look for bars with handwritten vermouth signs and ceramic barrels, and order a vermut de la casa with olives and a splash of soda.
Where to stay tonight
Hostel in El Raval (lively multicultural neighborhood west of Las Ramblas) $35-55/night
Close to tonight's vermouth bar route, with cheaper eats and fewer tourists than the Gothic Quarter.
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